POSTCARDS 
Sujit Pandit

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22Ân nË¡hZ, 1410

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August 27, 2003  

ISTANBUL

Dear family,

Here is the second postcard.  This one is from Istanbul, Turkey.

After spending two relaxing days and two nights sailing through the Adriatic Sea, the Mediterranean Sea and then through the Sea of Marmar we reached Istanbul.  Istanbul is a fascinating city, as Turkey is a fascinating country. 

The major reason for that is it is in between the cross roads of Asia and Europe.  Every thing here, the history and culture has been influenced because of the location of the city and the country. One half of the city of Istanbul is in Asia (called the Asian part) and the other in Europe, divided by a body of water called Bosphorus.  This Bosphorus also connects two major Seas - the Mediterranean Sea (by Sea of Marmar) and the Black Sea.  Thus it is placed strategically at the rout of business between all the Mediterranean and African countries and Russia and other countries. Istanbul is also in the important cross road of the famous ancient "Silk Road" for trades between China and the rest of the world, especially the middle east. Turkey is a fairly large country; I did not realize that three sides of Turkey is a peninsula, with Black sea on the north, Mediterranean Sea in the south and the Bosphorus on the west.  Only the east side is connected to land, Asia Minor.  Istanbul is a large city with 13 million people.

Istanbul has a long and checkered history. I am told that people lived here 7000 years before Christ.  Then, one century before Christ, a man called Byzentin, a Greek, realized the strategic potential of Istanbul, occupied it and made it a colony and an empire.  The city then was called Byzantium. The Byzantium culture came from here.  For a while Turkey was occupied by the Persians.   Then the Romans occupied it and ruled over it for many centuries, temporarily made it the capital of Roman empire, and called the city the Constantinople, after one of the first Roman emperors who came here.  Ultimately at about the thirteenth century the Ottoman Turks (Muslim) captured it and ruled it over five hundred years.  You will remember that the Ottoman Empire at one time extended over a large part of Europe (up to Vienna), most of the Middle East and a large part of Northern Africa. The name Istanbul is fairly new. Only in last century it was named Istanbul.

Sometimes after the First World War, in the nineteen thirties, the great Kamal Ataturk, at first the freedom fighter and then the First President of the republic, made Turkey a secular republic.  Kamal Ataturk gave voting rights to women in 1934, much before many European countries did, gave women right to be voted, made Sunday the weekly holiday rather than the Friday, introduced Roman scripts for writing rather than Arabic or Persian, banned fez for men and head covers for women. But things are changing again.   The religious  (Muslim) influences are coming back.  But although 98 percent of the populations are Muslim, the people here still are quite progressive.  The culture still is a mixture of Roman, Muslim and Greek.  Most women here do not cover their heads with scarf (Hijab) but many do.

I remembered that Babur, the first Mughal emperor, although did not come from the present day Turkey, (he came from Samarkhand then a part of Asia Minor or Anatolia) his mother-tongue was Turkish.

Since Turkey became a secular republic, other religions are tolerated. It is interesting to see that at least two ancient churches we saw during our visit were converted into mosques during the Muslim rule. Kamal Ataturk reconverted these mosques into museums and all the trimmings and decorations of the ancient churches were restored. It made me think about the stupid Babri masjid controversy in India, why can we not convert all the controversial religious sites into museums?

There are many famous Mosques here in Istanbul; the most famous is the so-called Blue Mosque.  It is very large (not as large as the Delhi Jumma masjid).  Inside of the mosque is covered with beautiful seventeenth century tiles.  They are blue, hence the name Blue Mosque. Inside the mosque is really beautiful, and this the most famous of the mosques in the world.  Besides, there is a huge palace of the Ottoman sultans with a very good collection of jewels and other artifacts.  The city has extensive Roman walls to protect the city. There are coliseums (stadiums like in Rome) called Hippodrome.  The huge underground and over ground water reservoirs and their aqua-ducts system are absolutely remarkable. They stored water for the whole city for months. Romans really left a lasting legacy here.

The city is a peculiar mixture of East and West.  Most places look like Bombay or old Delhi but some parts look like any other European city. The men and women mostly dress in western clothes although many women still wear Turkish dresses.  The bazaars are very much like in India.  You have to bargain for every thing.  The food is also a mixture of east and west.  Much of the food is like Indian food.  We were served some dishes that are very Indian, like Began ka bharta, Begun bhaja, kababs etc.  We saw a sweet dish, which looked exactly like Gulab jamun.

Love.
Sujit